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The Rise

Monday, December 14th, 2009

Today’s post comes from my new friend and fellow photographer Jay Goodrich.  After reading my post on Topophilia, Jay contacted me with his interest in contributing a story about how the landscape of southern Utah has touched him.  You can read his story, The Rise, below, as well as enjoy some original images from Jay.  Additionally, make sure to check out Jay’s photographs here, and subscribe to his blog here.  Thanks Jay!

The Rise © Jay Goodrich

I stand in the middle of a valley surrounded by rock formations. I can not see any of them yet, but I know they are there. It is so dark that I can not even tell if there are any clouds lingering to add to the drama of photography this morning. Red earth all over my shoes, my clothes. It is in my hair, my nose, my ears, and even my eyes. It was a little windy yesterday. I look to where I think the horizon is but I see nothing but a big black void. There is not a soul around, it is completely silent. I am for once, early. I head to the back of my truck to grab my backpack and my tripod. The rear bumper is covered in a layer of red powder about an eighth of an inch thick. I write “wash me” in it. As I open the door the dust stirs into little tornados before it falls back to the earth. My pack and tripod have traces of the deep maroon powder all over them as well. I stumbled upon this place yesterday afternoon.

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I am a bit tired. I spent the evening shooting star trails only to realize that morning was going to come way too soon. There is a crispness in the air, it tingles as it enters my nose. It reminds me of that sound you hear when a person bites into the perfect fall apple. A little pop, followed by a sweet aroma; I can just taste the explosion of flavor. Vapor crystals leave my nostrils and mouth and scatter as far as I can see. I hope that my mission is going to yield imagery that ties over my soul for awhile – this is my last day here.

I pull the Petzl lamp out of my pack and wrap it around my head. I turn it on, throw the pack onto my back, adjust the straps and buckles, sling the tripod onto my shoulder with one hand, and close the truck door with the other. More dust scatters. I start to walk into the belly of monuments and darkness. I am now the only light source.

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As I stumble to my location, a calm comes before me. It was like I donned that old comfortable shoe that was completely molded to the contours of my sole. I began to run on auto pilot. The light was starting to fill the sky. At least, enough that I could see those rock formations. They were looking a little pink. This place is so magical. I knew that would change as the sun began its race to the other side of the planet. It always starts as pink, or tan, something very subtle and muted, pastel. And depending on the atmosphere, the day could become, gold, yellow, orange, red, crimson, maroon, or any variant there of, a perfect contrast to that deep blue fall desert sky. The formations – sharp and jagged to smooth and bulbous. Why this place over any other? The mountains are my home, but this place speaks to me like no other.

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As the sun begins to come up there is a slight breeze. It is the souls of those rock formations coming alive, they are looking for warmth as am I. The hair on the back of my neck stands on end, like it does when I feel the gentle kiss of my wife. My pupils dilate. I feel the eye muscles tighten. The sun is showing her face ever so slightly. The warmth begins to bathe me and all of my surroundings. The crystals from my breath fall away closer to their origin. I quickly realize It is going to be a golden rise. Everything is covered in hues of yellow and orange. I look through my viewfinder one last time. God I love this place. And click.

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More images from Cedar Mesa

Friday, December 11th, 2009

I’d like to share a couple of more images from my recent trip to Cedar Mesa, in southeastern Utah.  The first one is an Anasazi, or Ancestral Puebloan, granary that’s immediately adjacent to the more famous Flaming Roof Ruin.  I love the way the doorway has “shaped” itself over the years into a unique symmetry, and you can still see the same patterns on the roof of the alcove, giving it a “flaming” appearance–maybe this is Flaming Roof Ruin II?

Anasazi Granary II, November 2009

Anasazi Granary II, November 2009

In addition to being impressed with the entire structure, the masonry work itself is also very interesting to look at, and I thought a detail of a granary wall would make an interesting photograph.  These structures were likely abandoned around 1300 AD (perhaps earlier), and they’ve managed to survive 700+ years in good shape.

Granary Wall, Detail, November 2009

Granary Wall, Detail, November 2009

Dreaming of the San Juans

Monday, December 7th, 2009

Growing up in northwestern New Mexico, one of the easiest mountain ranges to escape to were the San Juans of southern Colorado.  An impressively rugged range, the San Juans were my playground in high school for skiing, camping, and backpacking.  I have a lot of fond memories in this range, and because of its rugged demeanor, I have always enjoyed photographs from the area.

In response to Jim Goldstein’s call for photographers to obtain photographs from their own favorite photographers (was that as confusing as it sounded?) I recently contacted Guy Schmickle, who lives right at the base of the San Juans, about a possible print exchange.  Guy and I have interacted a few times over email, but I was happy to hear about his excitement over Jim’s project.  After a long discussion with my wife, we chose one of Guy’s prints to have in our house–the American Basin Waterfall–because it captures my love for this mountain range, and her love of waterfalls.  He chose my “Stars over Mobius Arch” in return, and we exchanged 8 x 12s of these images.

It was really rewarding to do this exchange with Guy; I’ve admired his work for quite a while, and the photo looks fantastic hanging in our house.  Now, if we could only settle on a spot for it to stay (my wife has tried out 2 locations already)…

American Basin Waterfall, Guy Schmickle

Black Friday

Thursday, December 3rd, 2009

While 1000s of people chose to get their post-Thanksgiving exercise by shopping the deals in our nation’s shopping malls, I escaped to southern Utah.  I recently shared a photo from the Ancestral Puebloan ruin I visited, but I was also able to visit a petroglyph panel known as the Procession Panel, which is located on Comb Ridge, west of the town of Bluff.

Procession Panel, November 2009

Procession Panel, November 2009

The panel, about 15 feet long, consists of multiple lines of people and animals “marching” towards a central point (visible below).  Two of the most interesting figures (above) are deer; the left-hand deer has an atlatl (basically a spear “thrower”) dart sticking out of its abdomen and the second one has a long tail that morphs into a snake ready to strike.  I wasn’t able to capture the entire tail in either of these photographs.  Archaeologists and Anthropologists who study the Anasazi culture have speculated on the meaning of this panel.  Was it a funeral procession?  Does it signify the event that caused the Ancestral Puebloans to leave the area abruptly?  Obviously we can never be really sure, but I’d like to suggest that it does NOT signify the people lining up outside of Wal-Mart for the best Black Friday deal on an LCD TV.

Procession Panel, November 2009

Procession Panel, November 2009

I’d also like to direct you to my new Cedar Mesa Page, showing all of the photos from my recent trip to Utah.  Enjoy!

Cedar Mesa, Utah

Sunday, November 29th, 2009

We just returned from my parents’ house in New Mexico, and in classic Topophiliac fashion, I made a quick day trip to the Cedar Mesa in southern Utah.  As a best estimate, it had been 9 years since I last visited this area, and returning only confirmed for me that it really is one of my favorite places to be.  Since I only had one day, the locations I visited were a little cliché and iconic, but it satiated my soul.  

I made my first visit to the ruin known as “Flaming Roof Ruin” or “House on Fire Ruin”.  It really is beautiful, and humbling, to be able to spend a couple of hours in such a historic location.  

 

Flaming Roof Ruin, November 2009

Flaming Roof Ruin, November 2009

I’ll have more posts from this amazing ruin, as well as other locations on my day trip in the next few days.  Getting to spend the day on Cedar Mesa with my Dad was one of the many things I was thankful for this last week.  I hope you were able to celebrate everything you’re thankful for this year…

Stark: photographing silhouettes

Friday, November 20th, 2009

Almost any photographer will tell you that they enjoy making images of pretty things.  Obviously “pretty” is subjective, but I’d lay the bet that most photographers wouldn’t argue with me.  Often times, I feel like I’m speaking for the subject by saying, “Hey, this place is really cool, look at it and admire it!”

Its natural for any artist to speak for their subject, and I really don’t believe there’s anything wrong with it.  But, sometimes, its nice to let the subject speak for itself.  This is why I like photographing silhouettes.

Joshua Tree Sunset, Joshua Tree National Park, California

Joshua Tree Sunset, Joshua Tree National Park, California

A silhouette–of a tree, mountain range, anything–stands before you, stark and naked, telling its own story.  Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) were given their name by Mormon pioneers crossing the Mojave Desert in the mid-19th century.  Their shape reminded the pioneers of a biblical story in with Joshua lifted his hands to the sky in prayer.  Looking at the above silhouettes of the joshua trees, you can almost see them raising their arms upward, paying their homage to the last vestige of the sun.

Twisted Dawn, Joshua Tree National Park, California

Twisted Dawn, Joshua Tree National Park, California

I’ll continue to speak for the land through my photography.  However, I think its instructive and important to find a way to let your subject speak for itself; sometimes its just screaming to be heard.  Finding your own powerful way of doing that will only help to make you a better photographer.

A quick visit to Joshua Tree National Park

Tuesday, November 17th, 2009

Last week’s Veteran’s Day holiday enabled me to sneak out to Joshua Tree National Park for the night.  In my ongoing series on Topophilia (there will be more posts on that in the near future), I have featured photographers who inspire me to think outside of the box.  In that spirit, I headed out for Joshua Tree, vowing to myself that I would making more images of the park’s namesake plants.  My goal instead was to visit a natural arch, called Arch Rock (and sometimes White Tank Arch), I had recently read about.  

Located on the Pinto Basin Road, the arch is a short hike from the White Tank campground, and I had the place to myself.  I’m still editing images, but here are two I made on my trip.

 

Arch Rock I, Joshua Tree National Park, November 2009

Arch Rock I, Joshua Tree National Park, November 2009

 

Arch Rock II, Joshua Tree National Park, November 2009

Arch Rock II, Joshua Tree National Park, November 2009

Featured Photographer–Varina Patel

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Varina is the second featured photographer in my series on Topophilia, finding your sense of place in the canyons of southern Utah.

In asking other photographers about what draws them to southern Utah, a theme that runs through their answers is the solitude.  During my exchange of emails with Varina Patel, she said it very well:

“Can you think of a spot where you can stand for an hour, and not hear a single car pass by, a single plane fly overhead, or another human voice besides your own? You can find countless spots like that in Utah.”

I think many landscape photographers need that solitude as surely as they need oxygen or water, and they begin taking images as a way to search out and capture that feeling.  Perhaps that’s why so many of us feel at home in southern Utah.

Much of southern Utah is located on the Colorado Plateau, which was uplifted during a series of relatively violent geologic events.  Despite the nature of its creation, the landscapes of southern Utah are amazingly elegant.  That elegance is what drew me to Varina’s photography.  Her compositions are simple, with brilliant lines and colors, and are technically perfect.  Her photos draw you in, letting the lines lead you through the frame, inviting you into the landscape.  Looking at her portfolio, it is evident that Varina–like many other photographers who have fallen victim to the landscapes of the Colorado Plateau–feels a deep connection with the earth.

Varina, with her husband Jay, run multiple workshops, including day workshops on a method of post-processing they have dubbed intelligent HDR (or iHDR).  The idea is to process the parts of the image that actually need an HDR treatment, rather than the whole frame.  The latter has a tendency to make an image look garish or unnatural.  Her expertise in post-processing is evident in looking at her images, and I hope I can achieve that level of understanding…someday!

Like Scott Bacon, Varina told me to choose which image of hers I would like to display.  I chose this image, taken in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  Varina gave me a fantastic description of the image, and of the landscape.  Rather than me try to butcher her words by paraphrasing, I’ll share her sentiments:

“…this is a spectacular location. It’s in the Southwest region of Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument. The Native Americans called it ‘The Land of the Sleeping Rainbows.’

The first time we visited this location, we stopped near this spot, and got out of the car. We stood there in awe of the view. Those bands of color you see in the mountains stretch for miles in every direction… and the landscape here is completely unpredictable. We’ve visited this spot several times now, and we’ve only explored a small piece of it. I think I could shoot here for weeks on end, and never get tired of it.

On this particular day, we arrived in time to scout locations before we set up our cameras. We could see these storm clouds rolling in, and were pretty excited about the prospect for some nice shots. The storm clouds were moving fast, and the light was incredible. I found a patch of cracked earth, and used that as my foreground – in an attempt to give the viewer a more intimate view of the location… as if they could step right into the photo.”

 

by Varina Patel (used with permission)

You can visit Varina’s website here, learn more about her workshops here, and subscribe to her blog here.

Topophilia

Friday, November 6th, 2009

Hi, my name’s Greg and I’m a topophile.

That statement almost makes me sound like I need to check into rehab or begin a 12-step program.  As it turns out, its a good thing to be a topophile.  What the heck is a topophile?  Anyone who has a strong sense of place or identity is a topophile.   Although I have never lived there, I have always felt a strong sense of place in southern Utah.  Having grown up in a home where I was taught to enjoy the outdoors, I do not feel out of place when I am outside anywhere, but I feel especially at ease when I visit southern Utah–its almost as if I’m going home.

When I was 6, my parents moved from Denver to the northwestern New Mexico (the Four Corners area).  I remember a lot of day trips and overnight trips to the La Plata and San Juan mountains, as well as places like Chaco Canyon and the Bisti Badlands.  However, it wasn’t until I was in Boy Scouts (age 12?) that I visited Moab, Utah for the first time.  We went on a mountain biking trip on some local trails, and on the way home stopped at the Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  To say I was blown away was an understatement.  After that first trip, I couldn’t wait to get back.

My dad, friends, and I had many more trips to Canyonlands over the next several years.  I was not drawn only to the topography and landscape, but also to the archaeological richness of the area.  In some areas, every rock outcropping held a new treasure to see, and to force me to imagine what the ancient peoples thought of this land.  We backpacked in the Dark Canyon Wilderness area, as well as several trips to the canyons of Cedar Mesa, a place I cannot wait to get back to.  Since then, I’ve had the opportunity to explore many of the technical canyons in Zion National Park as well as in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.

For me, its not so much that southern Utah offers so much in the way of natural beauty, but rather that I feel connected with the land in a way that words cannot really describe.  I’m honored to be able to visit and photograph this place often, and I hope that when my son gets older, my wife and I can instill a sense of place in him (wherever it may be) that my dad helped to instill in me.

Over the next weeks/months I’ll be featuring some of my own photos from southern Utah, as well as other photographers’ work who I really admire.

Today’s photo is of Castleton Tower, near Moab, Utah…where it all started for me.

Castleton Tower, Castle Valley, UT, December 2008

Moonrise over the oaks

Tuesday, November 3rd, 2009

On Sunday, we went for a quick hike at the Santa Rosa Plateau Ecological Reserve near Temecula CA.  Driving off the reserve at sunset, I came across this scene, pulled the car over, got my camera out and snapped a few quick shots before the sun dipped behind the hills, leaving the oaks in the shade.  I chose a vertical panorama presentation, because I wanted to draw attention to the moon rising.

Moonrise over the oaks, Temecula, CA, November 2009